Sunday, January 22, 2012

Voluntad y Jóvenes

The jóvenes (youth) beneficiaries attending the comedor comunitario (soup kitchen) are at times a really frustrating and dismal bunch. Educationally, over 33% of our kids are not in school and the majority are these are my teens. Personally, they are rumored to be some of the worst behaved kids in town whether making poor sexual choices starting as minors or involved in drugs/robbery. Professionally, they are only 20% Spanish speaking and ill-equipt to enter the job market in anything but house cleaning or construction help with a maximum income of 300.000Gs. (less than $100US) monthly. It is a sad case and even harder to stomach when they are so hard to reach much less gain in confidence. 

Back in October, it was decided that all jóvenes ages 12 and up would now have to volunteer in the comedor to receive its benefits and services so as not to create a false sense of dependency in young adults (and because donors to the comedor were refusing to donate to misbehaving street teens without some greater cause). That first month, only two or three jóvenes decided to stick around and others decided it would be better to harass the kids from outside. The rules were outlined, we work- then we eat, and a volunteer role chart was hung to organize the volunteers. But it was not an easy task, kids were sneaking food out on stolen plates to older siblings and volunteers were frustrated with the inside/outside inequalities. Even the cooks and commission members were ready to break, and this rule was voted in by them! We had had enough! It was time to play the carrot and stick. Our carrot- the jóvenes that helped me as volunteers regularly would be permitted to participate in my Ahecha photography course. Out stick- nobody won't eat REALLY until the work is done. The adults finalized the plan, and this time we wouldn't be slack.

After one more month, at times sticky due to difficult teen attitudes, we had a strong team of youth volunteers that were once our thankless beneficiaries not only helping out in an orderly fashion but also learning skills in leadership, service, and teamwork. Those in the Ahecha class even had the opportunity to learn how to use the camera, some practice desperately needed writing poems and paragraphs which is rarely done at home or even in school, and received their first ever certificado (one girl said that she was going to frame it and put it on her wall- she had dropped out of school a couple of years ago to help out in the house and this might be one of the few she will ever have). Now the teens actually complete for jobs they want that day instead of complaining about them, and they have a lovely time to chat afterwards with the adult staff at their own private lunch table. It was tough on the adults to be a bit more fuerte (strong/firm) with our discipline, but the carrot and the stick seem to have worked wonders so far- and I hope we can keep making differences in the lives of these jóvenes for months and years to come. 

Monday, January 9, 2012

Super Enferma

As a Peace Corps volunteer in Paraguay, I’ve developed many close relationships with my friends, neighbors and coworkers- and days when I’m feeling down or ill they are more than willing to offer a helping-hand. However, a Paraguayan’s help on your sick day may not be what you thought you were getting yourself into. 


Recently when I was dealing with the flu followed-by (or perhaps with) giardia- my boyfriend José decided to come over for what seemed like a short-notice party. He brought movies and friends and food…. And all I could think was, “Didn’t I tell you guys I was sick? I just want to sleep!” Trying not to be rude, I cooked up the food running to the bathroom every 15 minutes and tried to struggle through YouTube funny video sessions until I was ready to cry- “Guys please, I’m so tired- no more movies! I’d really like to go to bed!” The next week José was sick, and thinking of how miserable I felt I brought him soup and left him in bed to rest. Within an hour, José was furious with me- “how could you leave me alone when I am feeling so sick?” Completely confused, we decided to talk it out once we were all better.


As it turns out, when José was a child his mom would invite over friends and family when he was sick to give him company (as most Paraguayans would do), whereas when I was a child my mom would give me soup and tuck me in to sleep (as most Americans would do). Thus the root of the misunderstanding and also a way to resolve the problem- when I’m sick he now knows to let me sleep in silence with an occasional wake for tea, when he’s sick I know it is time to plan a party :-)

Even on a sick day, don't think you're free of those little cultural moments!

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Ahecha

Throughout November and December, I had the opportunity to teach a Peace Corps Paraguay photography course called "Ahecha" with approximately 30 youth and adults from my community. Although my community is rather large for rural Paraguay, most of my students do not own their own camera and even more have never had the opportunity to use one. So, this was a real exciting chance for my community members to take advantage of 5 digital cameras available for use during class and a rotation to take the cameras home and snap a few shots. Here are some of the topics we covered:

  • How to use a Digital Camera
  • What is a Photo?
  • Basic Photograph Components- light, frame, perspective, moment
  • Photo Analysis- poetry, descriptions, feelings, design
  • Portraits & Self Portraits
  • Landscapes
  • Movement
  • Black & White vs. Color
  • Advertising & Marketing Photography
The students did a spectacular job, with some really stellar results! I hope that every volunteer can participate in such a fun activity for the community. GO AHECHA!

Saturday, December 24, 2011

Navidad y Pesebres

Merry Christmas!

If you build it- they will come.
Everyone is welcome to visit our pesebre this year with rosarios and all as a take-away.

Friday, December 23, 2011

Adventuras en Brazil

For two weeks this month, I had the privilege of using some of my vacation time (I know-what? we get that?) to travel to Paraguay's neighboring country Brazil. The largest country in Latin America with a development record beyond any of it's neighbors- this is a place I just had to see. Bumping around my schedule and thankfully taking advantage of the slow Christmas season- I was off on December 11th-23rd for a Brazilian adventure!

1st Stop: Foz de Iguazu
Outstanding experience to see the largest falls in the world both from the Brazilian and Argentinian sides of the border. Soooo cool! This was one attraction that just kept on giving from the Garganta de Diablo (Devil's Throat) to San Marin's massive series of falls stretching around miles of cliff-faces sculpted into a gorgeous arc. I loved this place. Maybe even good for a honeymoon as my fellow backpackers observed. It's a little far out of the way compared to the endless beaches and sunshine on the coast, but this is one place you really should not miss. 

2nd Stop: Florianópolis
This is one super amazing green and beachy island. Over 50 beaches are scratched out along the shores, large and small with all sorts of outdoor fun. A great place for photography (oh, but watch out for the sand because that is how you break your camera real quick)! The hostel staff was sweet and friendly, especially charismatic Serg from Peru; even the guests were fun to hang with, my favorite 3 couples from Spain/Colombia, Norway, and UK/France and an Argentinean friend I kept running into throughout my trip. By far my favorite beach was Matadores on the south of the island, but I also loved the small beach-side towns dotting the island with their little shops and colonial architecture. I could have stayed much longer, it was such a lovely place to be. For now, I've got the sunburn etched into my back as a recordatorio.

3rd Stop: Sao Paulo
A massive but shockingly clean and organized city. Hostel staff also great and more friends to get to know- a job hunter from the Netherlands looking to make a life in Brazil's New York City. All of Brazil screams "jobs!" but this city has the paychecks to make you squeal with delight. Rumor has it that many of Sao Paulo's rich get a ride via helicopter to work each day... so many in fact, that they are having air traffic problems. Lol. A Saturday night out bar hopping is certainly the thing to do, from brit-style gay bars to Paulista's snappy clubs. With all the Christmas decorations, it's difficult to feel like you're far from home in this city... until you notice Santa is below a palm tree. Downtown is a mass of people, the flood of pedestrians most dense heading to the Muni Mercado. If you can find a place to stop and snap a picture, you'll find the architecture unique. If you're not big on the hustle and bustle, just head to the parks where you can find ample space for a jog, yoga, or even sword-fighting lessons. Two days was enough for me, but for city-dwellers this is the place to be.

4th Stop: Rio de Janeiro
The welcome at the bus stop is not at all what one would expect for this well-known and celebrated Brazilian beach-side city and former capital. One's expectation is altered harshly to be greeted by graffiti across all the walls from kids competing to get their sign the highest and homeless sprawled out on the sidewalks. But not to worry, the place will win your approval in no time with it's outstanding touristy feel and accommodations. Boat party on the bay- check. A photo with the world's tallest statue the Christ Redeemer- check, outdoor artwork at the Lapa Stairs- check, hang-gliding over forest, sky-scrapers, and beaches- check. You can do it all and more. But make sure to take the time to see the "other" side of the city, book a tour or adventure with a friend into the favelas. Many are quite safe these days, and it is probably the real highlight of my time in Rio. Get to know the people, wander the concrete and spiraling streets, dance in the rain as the water whips away your flip-flops and the day's dirt. That is the Rio you should know.

5th Stop: Curitiba
Getting pretty tired at this rate, but Curitiba is truly a jewel in Brazil's interior. The cutest town hall I have ever seen, a free zoo right in the middle, a beautiful botanical garden, and decent souvenirs. Venture into one of the various shopping malls for a look at Brazilian fashion (not that you didn't notice already you were breaking all the rules wandering the streets) and compare the prices. This place is not actually all that cheap... in fact, it could be more expensive that the USA. While you are waiting for your bus, waltz in the Muni Market and buy some of the yummiest cheese, organic bread, and artichoke dip you've had yet in South America. Mmmmm.

Without a doubt, Brazil is certainly a place you should visit - and I barely even scratched the surface. In talking with fellow back-packers, there is much more to be seen in Brasilia and the north, the wild Pantanal, and the Amazon rainforest. These places are full of African culture, samba, and Brazil's most popular and native dishes. I will surely have to go back some day. For now, the memories I most often relive are the long bus journeys across rolling tropical hills, waking from dreams of another world and squinting through the fog to that place I was drifting through.

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Tributo

This day my fellow Peace Corps volunteer, G-33 coworker, and friend passed away in a tragic car accident. 

Emily Balog
1985-2011

She will be dearly missed.

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

400 Años de Fundación

Paraguay had it's big bicentennial celebration this year in May, but in a somewhat surprising twist of events my site also had it's 400 year foundation anniversary this October. In preparation for the celebration, I took part in several events and publications as a part of my Peace Corps service to my community. Through the process of collecting interviews, poems, pictures, and historical items, I have learned a lot about my town that I may have never known otherwise.

First, I learned that my town is only the center of a much larger history of the surrounding district as a whole. Our district has over 30,000 habitants while my town itself has only ~6,000. Within the district, statistics say we have 84 villages, 70 primary schools, 16 high schools, and several universities. The culture of the district is distinctly impacted by these small towns and villages as each in and of itself has a rich history and tradition. This also makes us the largest district within Departmento Caazapa and one of the most influential in the region politically and economically.

Second, the name of my town (which kinda sounds like the name "U2" in Guarani) has two possible origins. Option 1: U meaning "spine" or "needle" and 2 meaning "plant" or "vine." I hadn't realized until I took a small hike through some local forrest with a friend that this place is FULL of little prickly plants. As I understand, I you happen to get pricked and leave the spine in your skin it actually travels up your arm/leg! So I guess if we were to name a place for something, it should be what you need to look out for when your walking around. Yikes! Option 2: U meaning "sacred" and 2 meaning "together." Back before the Spanish conquest of the area, my little town was the community meeting and trading place of various Guarani indigenous tribes. So, when they were to call a meeting they would go to the "sacred together" place. Pretty neat, eh?

Third, my town has a whole lot of pride for it's history and traditions. Books have been published on the town's foundation; poetry and music recited and sung to its rolling green hills and open fields; photos taken in celebration of its train stations, bridges and people. While I am not a native, this month I feel almost as proud to simply be a part of this little town's history and development.

During the final day of our celebrations a local poet returned to Yuty for the procession of the hypothetical ashes of the town's founder around the plaza. In the cathedral, his poem was recited tearfully in tribute to a long history and love of this small Paraguayan town:


Brota en mi mente soñadora,
en un dulce “Mandu`a”,
es a Yuty al que se añora
bañado por la brisa del Yagua Rugua.-

No puedo dejarte en el olvido
recordándote desde Tarutí,
Bolaños te dejó así sentido
hoy al no verte sufro por ti.-

Acuden los recuerdos en tropeles,
de tus calles y barrios de un silencio acogedor,
la juventud pasada cubierta de oropeles
para guardar por siempre envuelta en su calor.-

Tus montes y valles embrujados
desde el Paso Guazú al Gazory rumoroso,
evocan las endechas de un pasado
y vuelcan en presente venturoso.-

Tus ríos, arroyos y nacientes
con tu ubérrimo suelo colorado,
sirven de excelentes nutrientes
para el agro trabajado y cultivado.-

Del itá carú que existe en tu subsuelo,
y del uranio que yace en tus entrañas,
surge en el yuteño el anhelo
de su producción industrial para el mañana.-

La sabia de tus hijos valerosos
nos sirven de norte, noche y día,
ellos, que cruzaron los caminos escabrosos,
nosotros los tenemos como guías.-

Hombres hechos en el sacrificio
curtidos en las luchas y los embates,
llevan en sus genes como oficio
de jamás rehuir por bravíos los combates.-

Cuna de nombres inmortales
los Ayala Velázquez, Brizuela, Caballero López y otros,
con sus memorias trascendentales,
lamentamos que ya no están entre nosotros.-

Tus mujeres de estirpe heroicas
su hermosura por doquier ostentan
son en el sufrimiento estoicas
y en su trato con el amor nos tientan.-

¡Cómo dejarte en el olvido!
recordándote desde Tarutí
Bolaños te dejó así sentido
hoy el no verte lloró por ti.-

~Dr. Manuel Ángel Bachero Macchi



Happy Anniversary- from your friendly Peace Corps Volunteer...