Ahecha

Throughout November and December, I had the opportunity to teach a Peace Corps Paraguay photography course called "Ahecha" with approximately 30 youth and adults from my community. Although my community is rather large for rural Paraguay, most of my students do not own their own camera and even more have never had the opportunity to use one. So, this was a real exciting chance for my community members to take advantage of 5 digital cameras available for use during class and a rotation to take the cameras home and snap a few shots. Here are some of the topics we covered:

• How to use a Digital Camera
• What is a Photo?
• Basic Photograph Components- light, frame, perspective, moment
• Photo Analysis- poetry, descriptions, feelings, design
• Portraits & Self Portraits
• Landscapes
• Movement
• Black & White vs. Color
• Advertising & Marketing Photography

The students did a spectacular job, with some really stellar results! I hope that every volunteer can participate in such a fun activity for the community. GO AHECHA!

Navidad y Pesebres

Merry Christmas!

If you build it- they will come.

Everyone is welcome to visit our pesebre this year with rosarios and all as a take-away.

Adventuras en Brazil

For two weeks this month, I had the privilege of using some of my vacation time (I know-what? we get that?) to travel to Paraguay's neighboring country Brazil. The largest country in Latin America with a development record beyond any of it's neighbors- this is a place I just had to see. Bumping around my schedule and thankfully taking advantage of the slow Christmas season- I was off on December 11th-23rd for a Brazilian adventure!

1st Stop: Foz de Iguazu

Outstanding experience to see the largest falls in the world both from the Brazilian and Argentinian sides of the border. Soooo cool! This was one attraction that just kept on giving from the Garganta de Diablo (Devil's Throat) to San Marin's massive series of falls stretching around miles of cliff-faces sculpted into a gorgeous arc. I loved this place. Maybe even good for a honeymoon as my fellow backpackers observed. It's a little far out of the way compared to the endless beaches and sunshine on the coast, but this is one place you really should not miss. 

2nd Stop: Florianópolis

This is one super amazing green and beachy island. Over 50 beaches are scratched out along the shores, large and small with all sorts of outdoor fun. A great place for photography (oh, but watch out for the sand because that is how you break your camera real quick)! The hostel staff was sweet and friendly, especially charismatic Serg from Peru; even the guests were fun to hang with, my favorite 3 couples from Spain/Colombia, Norway, and UK/France and an Argentinean friend I kept running into throughout my trip. By far my favorite beach was Matadores on the south of the island, but I also loved the small beach-side towns dotting the island with their little shops and colonial architecture. I could have stayed much longer, it was such a lovely place to be. For now, I've got the sunburn etched into my back as a recordatorio.

3rd Stop: Sao Paulo

A massive but shockingly clean and organized city. Hostel staff also great and more friends to get to know- a job hunter from the Netherlands looking to make a life in Brazil's New York City. All of Brazil screams "jobs!" but this city has the paychecks to make you squeal with delight. Rumor has it that many of Sao Paulo's rich get a ride via helicopter to work each day... so many in fact, that they are having air traffic problems. Lol. A Saturday night out bar hopping is certainly the thing to do, from brit-style gay bars to Paulista's snappy clubs. With all the Christmas decorations, it's difficult to feel like you're far from home in this city... until you notice Santa is below a palm tree. Downtown is a mass of people, the flood of pedestrians most dense heading to the Muni Mercado. If you can find a place to stop and snap a picture, you'll find the architecture unique. If you're not big on the hustle and bustle, just head to the parks where you can find ample space for a jog, yoga, or even sword-fighting lessons. Two days was enough for me, but for city-dwellers this is the place to be.

4th Stop: Rio de Janeiro

The welcome at the bus stop is not at all what one would expect for this well-known and celebrated Brazilian beach-side city and former capital. One's expectation is altered harshly to be greeted by graffiti across all the walls from kids competing to get their sign the highest and homeless sprawled out on the sidewalks. But not to worry, the place will win your approval in no time with it's outstanding touristy feel and accommodations. Boat party on the bay- check. A photo with the world's tallest statue the Christ Redeemer- check, outdoor artwork at the Lapa Stairs- check, hang-gliding over forest, sky-scrapers, and beaches- check. You can do it all and more. But make sure to take the time to see the "other" side of the city, book a tour or adventure with a friend into the favelas. Many are quite safe these days, and it is probably the real highlight of my time in Rio. Get to know the people, wander the concrete and spiraling streets, dance in the rain as the water whips away your flip-flops and the day's dirt. That is the Rio you should know.

5th Stop: Curitiba

Getting pretty tired at this rate, but Curitiba is truly a jewel in Brazil's interior. The cutest town hall I have ever seen, a free zoo right in the middle, a beautiful botanical garden, and decent souvenirs. Venture into one of the various shopping malls for a look at Brazilian fashion (not that you didn't notice already you were breaking all the rules wandering the streets) and compare the prices. This place is not actually all that cheap... in fact, it could be more expensive that the USA. While you are waiting for your bus, waltz in the Muni Market and buy some of the yummiest cheese, organic bread, and artichoke dip you've had yet in South America. Mmmmm.

Without a doubt, Brazil is certainly a place you should visit - and I barely even scratched the surface. In talking with fellow back-packers, there is much more to be seen in Brasilia and the north, the wild Pantanal, and the Amazon rainforest. These places are full of African culture, samba, and Brazil's most popular and native dishes. I will surely have to go back some day. For now, the memories I most often relive are the long bus journeys across rolling tropical hills, waking from dreams of another world and squinting through the fog to that place I was drifting through.

Tributo

This day my fellow Peace Corps volunteer, G-33 coworker, and friend passed away in a tragic car accident. 

Emily Balog

1985-2011

She will be dearly missed.

400 Años de Fundación

Paraguay had it's big bicentennial celebration this year in May, but in a somewhat surprising twist of events my site also had it's 400 year foundation anniversary this October. In preparation for the celebration, I took part in several events and publications as a part of my Peace Corps service to my community. Through the process of collecting interviews, poems, pictures, and historical items, I have learned a lot about my town that I may have never known otherwise.

First, I learned that my town is only the center of a much larger history of the surrounding district as a whole. Our district has over 30,000 habitants while my town itself has only ~6,000. Within the district, statistics say we have 84 villages, 70 primary schools, 16 high schools, and several universities. The culture of the district is distinctly impacted by these small towns and villages as each in and of itself has a rich history and tradition. This also makes us the largest district within Departmento Caazapa and one of the most influential in the region politically and economically.

Second, the name of my town (which kinda sounds like the name "U2" in Guarani) has two possible origins. Option 1: U meaning "spine" or "needle" and 2 meaning "plant" or "vine." I hadn't realized until I took a small hike through some local forrest with a friend that this place is FULL of little prickly plants. As I understand, I you happen to get pricked and leave the spine in your skin it actually travels up your arm/leg! So I guess if we were to name a place for something, it should be what you need to look out for when your walking around. Yikes! Option 2: U meaning "sacred" and 2 meaning "together." Back before the Spanish conquest of the area, my little town was the community meeting and trading place of various Guarani indigenous tribes. So, when they were to call a meeting they would go to the "sacred together" place. Pretty neat, eh?

Third, my town has a whole lot of pride for it's history and traditions. Books have been published on the town's foundation; poetry and music recited and sung to its rolling green hills and open fields; photos taken in celebration of its train stations, bridges and people. While I am not a native, this month I feel almost as proud to simply be a part of this little town's history and development.

During the final day of our celebrations a local poet returned to Yuty for the procession of the hypothetical ashes of the town's founder around the plaza. In the cathedral, his poem was recited tearfully in tribute to a long history and love of this small Paraguayan town:

Brota en mi mente soñadora,

en un dulce “Mandu`a”,

es a Yuty al que se añora

bañado por la brisa del Yagua Rugua.-

No puedo dejarte en el olvido

recordándote desde Tarutí,

Bolaños te dejó así sentido

hoy al no verte sufro por ti.-

Acuden los recuerdos en tropeles,

de tus calles y barrios de un silencio acogedor,

la juventud pasada cubierta de oropeles

para guardar por siempre envuelta en su calor.-

Tus montes y valles embrujados

desde el Paso Guazú al Gazory rumoroso,

evocan las endechas de un pasado

y vuelcan en presente venturoso.-

Tus ríos, arroyos y nacientes

con tu ubérrimo suelo colorado,

sirven de excelentes nutrientes

para el agro trabajado y cultivado.-

Del itá carú que existe en tu subsuelo,

y del uranio que yace en tus entrañas,

surge en el yuteño el anhelo

de su producción industrial para el mañana.-

La sabia de tus hijos valerosos

nos sirven de norte, noche y día,

ellos, que cruzaron los caminos escabrosos,

nosotros los tenemos como guías.-

Hombres hechos en el sacrificio

curtidos en las luchas y los embates,

llevan en sus genes como oficio

de jamás rehuir por bravíos los combates.-

Cuna de nombres inmortales

los Ayala Velázquez, Brizuela, Caballero López y otros,

con sus memorias trascendentales,

lamentamos que ya no están entre nosotros.-

Tus mujeres de estirpe heroicas

su hermosura por doquier ostentan

son en el sufrimiento estoicas

y en su trato con el amor nos tientan.-

¡Cómo dejarte en el olvido!

recordándote desde Tarutí

Bolaños te dejó así sentido

hoy el no verte lloró por ti.-

~Dr. Manuel Ángel Bachero Macchi

Happy Anniversary- from your friendly Peace Corps Volunteer...

Ingenio y Creatividad

When one thinks of Peace Corps from the comfort of one's own sofa in the glory that is an American dream home, one's thought process frequently jumps to the challenges of basic living that comprises the life of a Peace Corps Volunteer. Whether that be lack of water and electricity, to growing one's own food, or to walking long distances in ankle-deep mud; the physical differences between life in the developed versus developing world are often what we consider to be one of the biggest challenges in Peace Corps. All that said, from an insider's point of view these physical differences are not actually that big of a deal. In large part, this is because in my service in Paraguay- ingenuity and creativity have resolved a lot of the struggle that one imagines.

Let me give you some neat examples:
Running water-
So, not all of us are as lucky as I am to have running water in our homes. That said, the utility of latrines is not all that terrible when you get into the details. For example, many latrines come with a nice little boxed in seat, they are much easier to care for than a modern bathroom, and if you are really guapa your latrine can actually be a great source of compost if treated with ash from your wood-burning ta'ta'cua. And while it may seem like a real pain to be left without a sink to wash your hands, PCVs often use recycled 2-liter soda bottles to make portable hand-washers with a little soap-holder and all. Good for the environment and you in so many ways: 1) recycled, 2) less water usage, and 3) your hands still get clean! Finally, just because the water isn't running to your kitchen sink and washing machine doesn't mean that you don't have some really tasty water to rehydrate with some terere after a long day in the sun. In my case, just dig a hole in your back yard, find a bucket and some rope, and there you have all the water you could need for a bucket bath, dish washing, and your garden.

Electricity-
Well, the majority of PCVs in my country do have electricity in their homes. But for those days when the lightning strikes or the wind is too strong and your power goes out, you still have plenty of candles to light up the house. It's always much more romantic to read and journal write in candlelight anyway, right?

Limited Access to Processed Foods-
In the good ole' USofA we are pretty used to the idea that food comes in cans and boxes. We have everything from soups to pancake mix to just-add-milk mac & cheese. While these meals are pretty tasty and convenient, it is really not that much more difficult to do all this and more in a humble Paraguayan kitchen. I mean... call me crazy or just way too American... but did you realize that pancake mix is pretty much just flour and baking soda/powder? I guess they may mix it up a bit from time to time, but we are actually paying something like 5USD for that?!? I find that making things from scratch in Paraguay serves many a purpose: A) Helps to calm the mind after a long day of practicing Guarani (and often failing at the most inopportune moments). B) My mom always used to say if you know how to cook then you'll never starve... and cooking from scratch should really be cooking 101. So don't worry mom- I'm good from here on out. C) All those preservatives in boxed and canned foods really do a number on your health. Now that my food is pretty much all fresh from the corner store or my own back yard, I can feel the difference in my vitamin in-take. And, the food tastes sooo much better too! I will never look at supermarket milk the same again... how can I drink that when I don't know the cow personally? D) There are a lot of movements in the developed world about getting back to locally-grown organic foods, but in the Peace Corps this is not a movement so much as a way of life. My eggs come from my neighbors' chickens, my chicken (conveniently) from those very same chickens, my pork/steak from yet another neighbor, my veggies from my garden, my fruit (avocados included) from my back yard, my yerba mate from the suburbs around my town, my rice/corn/beans from local farmers, etc. In fact, at this stage it is actually kinda' a hassle to buy imports... so I don't think that a fair-trade mark is going to go too far out here.

Rough Travel Conditions-
I was certainly one of the first, and for sure not the last to be astounded and outraged by travel conditions in Paraguay. 7+ hours in an old bus without air-conditioning (or heat- take your pick) on dirt roads with rickety old wooden bridges over Amazonian rivers is not exactly my idea of a relaxing travel experience. However, one really grows to appreciate all that time to get to know people from your departamento (you'll never be short of a conversationalist on that long of a ride), taking extra long naps, reading those books you never had time for back in the States, considering and then re-considering your life plan, calling friends you haven't seen in a while, or simply enjoying the scenery. If all that isn't good enough, even the former frustrations with travel limitations due to a combo of bad weather/road conditions have become more of an entertainment factor than anything else. If I happen to be stuck out of site, I can always visit a fellow PCV in another part of the country and learn all about a new town. If I get stuck in site, it's a great reason to throw caution to the wind and cancel all my important meetings in the capital or avoid that really terrible workshop I really didn't want to go to anyway. I mean, who really needed to travel anyhow?

No Malls or (God-forbid!) Super WalMarts-
A Peace Corps Volunteer budget topped with a major lack of shopping malls in the campo can really put a damper on your materialistic spending habits. Every so often a traveling sales-man comes through with new season offers, but it is just not the same as a one-stop-shop for everything. That said, there is a lot you can do with 30.000Guaranis and ingenious local resources. For example, if you happen to lose around 40 pounds (because of all the healthy food and great opportunities to walk long distances in 40 degree C weather), you do NOT have to go shopping. Actually, there is a really nice lady down the street that knows how to take in your jeans and even make you a matching tailored shirt for a tenth of the cost. Another example, if your boot ends up with a hole in it (probably due to the rough cobblestone roads day in and out), you can just head to the shoe tailor's house and he'll get you re-soled and on your way. Or, if you are really in a bind and running low on cash my neighborhood kids can show you have to fix a flip-flop with some fencing wire. Not super comfortable, but kinda fashionable... you'd be surprised. Finally, for all those housewares that we've come up with from the toilet paper holder to the picture frames, all that can be done pretty simply with some wire, nails, scrap wood, and recycled trash. For an extra flourish, buy some paint next time you're in the city and you've got at least a 10USD Walmart sales offer. :-)

At the end of the day, the Peace Corps life... well, life in general in the developing world... is really not all that bad. Once you get past some of the conveniences and get to chisme circles, terere, living from the land, and just plain being tranquilo, you see that what is really important in life never changes... and the rest can be solved with a little creativity.

Un Año

It is hard to believe... and perhaps even harder to swallow: I am at my one year service mark in Paraguay.

A year ago today, I swore in as an official Peace Corps Volunteer to serve in Departmento Caazapá for the following 2 years and begin an adventure that many call "the toughest job you'll ever love." I came in feeling a bit nervous, tired, fat, and at least 7 dusty hours on the road unbathed. My first real conversation in my site was with my host dad regarding whether or not girls should be allowed to have short hair as they may be mistaken for men (I had short hair). As I look back, I really can't fathom all that I have been through and learned this year. Beyond the basics of Spanish/Guarani, the project cycle and community mapping, and the wonders of PACA/PRA (participatory rural analysis) tools- I have learned to love and appreciate a culture so very different from my own in ways I never imagined I could. I've met a variety of families that have taken me in as their own, friends that have been there for me, and colleagues that are inspiring beyond many I've ever known.

Wow.

I am still, however, only touching the tip of the iceberg. There is much yet to learn about Latin America and the developing world, more Spanish to get into, much more Guarani, more times in which I will grow through my faults and struggles more than my successes. That said, welcome to my 2nd year in Peace Corps Paraguay.

It's not been the best, nor been the worst- and THANK YOU.

La Copa América

Fútbol (soccer) season is back now at the mid-point of my Peace Corps service. This year, rather than the World Cup we were all about the Copa América. Once again decked out in my Paraguay fútbol jersey, I sat excitedly in a friend's house glued to the TV for the semi-finals against Venezuela. The boys were already cheering and yelling at the screen before the game even started. I giggled inside a little, but couldn't hold back my own occasional yelp as the game went on. Two hours later, score was still 0-0 and we were in for penalty shots. Whew- because this is where Paraguay shines. Every game in the Copa this year that they've won has been in the penalty shots. Their goalie is outstanding, so it's no wonder we love the penalty rounds. Indeed, this time around we were still in an ideal position. One- two- three goals in and then... the Paraguayan goalie stops the ball! The crowd goes wild, the house is shaking with my friends' jumping around. We made it to the finals of the Copa América!!!

The next day, I make my way to national Expo to check out the business stands and celebrities. It had been raining for several days, so I'd been stuck in Asuncion due to poor road conditions. The event was good fun, complete with models, the most famous guitar player in Paraguay, a mini-pyramid from the Louvre, and carnaval rides. All that said, my favorite spectacle of the evening was actually my bus ride home. At nearly midnight we were standing on the roadside waiting for a bus to pass that would go to Ypane where I was staying with a family. Traffic packed, we were finally able to find a direct bus (amazing as usually they don't run at that hour) and piled in with loads of Ypane locals. As we waited for the bus to fill-up, people were cramming in like sardines in the aisle and three to a seat. I snuggled up with my friends for what would be a very fun ride. The back of the bus started it all: PARAGUAY//! PARAGUAY//! The front of the bus then chimed in with a stomping/clapping response. Soon we were all singing the Paraguayan fight song and shouting to onlookers outside to join in. "There's still more space! Hop on and join the party," they yelled. More people piled in, more singing and chanting ensued. An hour later, I was finally home and now dreaming the Copa América.

The final game took place today against Uruguay. Paraguayans as a rule were hesitantly hopeful. Many simply said, "Clearly, Paraguay will win." Others talked about burning the victory into the memories of their ancestors for years to come. To be fair, Paraguay hasn't won the Copa América for 32 years. Not too bad then, making it to the finals. As I settled down at my friend's house in site (the rain finally stopped long enough for me to make it back), I pulled anxiously at my Paraguay jersey as the game got started. Within the first few minutes, Uruguay makes their first goal... by the end of the first half they've gotten two past our defenses. It is not looking good for Paraguay, but there is still hope as we send out the boys for a beer and potatoes (for french fries/chips/freedom fries- whatever you call them). The second half seems to be improving, at least they are making more aggressive plays, but to no avail. Sadly, Paraguay goes into history at 0-3 against Uruguay in the 2011 Copa América. Maybe next time. For now, Paraguay is awarded best goalie and heck- number two ain't a bad place to be.

WAY TO GO PARAGUAY! 

FUERZA

Revisiones del Comedor Comunitario

If we were at an all-time low for the last couple of months- this month is making up for all that, and then some- on our local comedor (soup kitchen) project. After a difficult pollada sale and little progress made on infrastructural changes, this month we decided to approach our work and support of the community from several new and promising angles.

First off, our approach thus far to food security assistance has been very limited. While we have been successful in providing food to over 300 local children (approximately 130 attend regularly), we are only really looking at the tip of a larger flame. When addressing any issue such as the cycle of poverty, it is necessary to look beyond the obvious problem to its deeper causes. In our case, this means looking not just at hunger but also home infrastructure insufficiencies, lack of work opportunities, and poor capacity. So, this month I took one of our administrators to a conference on Project Design and Management with the Peace Corps to discuss community needs assessment and the project cycle so as to kick-start a new intervention plan. At this workshop, we laid the foundation for starting weekend capacity-building classes which can help families address poverty and hunger within the home. After a couple more meetings in site, we were ready for our first family gardening lesson which involved the parents of the comedor in training on composting, garden prep, seed saving, veggie cultivation, and cooking with veggies. This first event was so successful we had over 150 in attendance at the comedor for lunch and 20+ parents participating in the workshop. We are now preparing for workshops on sewing and crochet, fogón (brick oven) construction, cleaning techniques, and CV writing. Beyond this capacitation assistance, we have been completing interviews with all of our comedor families to determine their health, work, and home needs. Home visits and interviews should be completed this week and within the next few weeks we will be inviting parents to a health day with local physicians. Finally, we are able to look beyond hunger to its root cause- and do something about it.

Second, we decided to make a big push on local business contributions by distributing pedidos for everything from meat and soy to veggies and cleaning supplies. Meanwhile, we started a community outreach campaign via the radio first with two radio shows promoting the mere existence of the comedor and the progress we've made after our first 6 months of operation. By discussing the project on the local mass media channels, we were able to invite visitors from the community, more kids, and even individual assistance. We then gave ourselves two weeks for business petitions, visitor tours, and municipality lobbying. Finally we were ready to launch our largest campaign yet: a radio marathon which would take over all local radio frequencies for one Sunday morning. And boy did it ever work! In addition to raising several hundred dollars worth of funds, we also raised over a hundred donations of food (mandioca, rice, pasta, beans, meat, veggies), building supplies (cement, bricks, paint), and furniture (100 chairs, tables, kitchen cabinets, freezer). AMAZING! The community was so excited about the project, we were even rushed with volunteer offers to cook and operate the comedor an additional day per week. With all this support, we are secure for another several months and have the resources necessary to start our building remodel for winter. Additionally, we were successful in receiving an extension on support from Emergencia Nacional with dry food donations for the next three months. Following an audit last weekend, we were also offered the possibility of permanent service extensions in return for the continuation of our capacity-building and developed recreation activities. EVEN MORE AMAZING!

So, here I am on cloud-nine and happier than ever with this project. The other day, as we reviewed our donations and planned our first construction day I couldn't help but want to give one big hug to my guapo community commission. They have come so far. Now they are not only known as having achieved a community goal, but as experts in local mobilization and project management. Isn't that what grassroots development is all about? You bet!

En Mi Bolsa Internacional

It has been exactly one year now since I formally quit my job to become a Peace Corps Volunteer. To help out those that are currently packing for their own personal adventure- here's my packing list and some suggestions looking back after a year's worth of service.

Equipment
Large Suit Case
Backpack (medium sized & backpacking)
Large and Small Purse
Sleeping Bag
Travel Pillow
Queen Sheets/Pillow case
Plastic Bags/Space Bags (travel not vacuum seal)

Duct Tape

Clothes
Pants/Jeans

Shorts- cargo/exercise
Shirts
Thermals
Camis/Tank tops
Sweaters
Underwear (15)/Bras (10)
Socks (15+)- cotton and wool
Shoes- waterproof boots, sandals, flipflops, dress shoes, dark color sneakers
Business Casual Wear
Dress
Coat- medium and large, waterproof if possible

Hat/Gloves/Scarf
Bandanas x2
Swimsuit

PJs (conservative)

Toiletries
Contacts/Liquid
Glasses (2 pairs)

Sun Glasses
Towel/Washcloth
Shampoo/Conditioner
Soap
Razors
Shave Gel
Gel
Hairbrush
Toothbrush/Paste/Floss
Deodorant
Qtips
Tampons/Pads
Make-up
Hand Sanitizer
Baby wipes
Tweezers/Nail Clippers/Nail File

Electronics

Camera
Ipod
Speakers
USB Flash Drive
External Hard-drive
Travel Alarm Clock- battery operated & small
Computer/Charger
Power Adaptors
Batteries
Flashlight


Documents
Money Belt
Passport/Visa
ATM Card/Credit Cards
International Insurance Card
Voter Registration Card (to vote overseas- ask for absentee ballot)
Peace Corps Folder & Paperwork
Copy of all prescriptions, passport, visa, vaccinations, power of attorney, etc.
Folder of important phone #s, travel docs, tickets
Wallet w/ID
Foreign and US Currency
Checkbook (to pay taxes)

Personal
Medications (Vitamins, Allergy Meds, Ibuprofen, Tums/GasX)
Mini First Aid Kit
Water Bottle/Thermos
Swiss Army Knife with Scissors/Bottle Opener/Cork Screw
Sunscreen
Lip Balm/Carmex
Lotion
Bug Spray with DEET
Sewing Kit
Permanent Markers
Journal
Gifts for Host Family/Friends/Colleagues
Photos of Family/Friends
Favorite Foods/Spices
Books
Games for Travel/Cards

Some suggestions:
1) Not all of this will fit. I suggest cutting back on clothing items as they are actually pretty cheap here. That said, they aren't great quality. So, what you do bring should be quality so that it lasts your service.

2) Things that ended up being important which may not have seemed so originally include travel pillow (great for long bus rides), thermals (it's not that cold, but you have no escape from it even in your bed at night), dark colored shoes (Paraguayan's judge highly one's appearance- the "lindo factor"- so you need shoes that don't get dirty looking too quickly or you'll always have your shoes in a bucket), tampons/shave gel (not really sold here), hand sanitizer (when you find a bathroom with soap, please call me), batteries (US batteries can't be beat), sewing kit (when your clothes are washed by hand and then hung to dry on barbed-wire this becomes really necessary), permanent markers (not available and really useful sometimes), spices (unknown uses in many households).

3) Things that ended up not being so important include books (there is a huge library here, no need to haul your own- don’t bother with dictionaries as you’ll get one here), most toiletries (heavy to bring down and mostly all available here anyway), medications/first aid kit (you get them ALL upon arrival so really only bring what you need prescriptions for), bug spray (also given to you here).

4) If I had to pack again, this time I would have brought more shorts, a heavy wool sweater, hair ties, Spanish kids books (if any), beach ball & frisbee, non-stick frying pan, chocolate chips.

5) If you are a CED volunteer- BRING YOUR COMPUTER!!! I know they say over and over that you should consider leaving it at home, but virtually all CED volunteers rely heavily on computer usage in their work. Part of our sector is computer training, for example. Plus, excel spreadsheets and internet are invaluable when your organization and networking skills are called upon. Those that did not bring them originally have either bought or had them shipped, so think again.

Una Semana en la Vida

It’s been a while since I’ve given an example of typical life as a Peace Corps Volunteer. This time, to mix it up a bit, I’d like to talk a bit about my past week- which has been a whirlwind of activity mixed with fiesta, siesta, and descansa.

Sunday started off the week well with a restful morning during which my weekly youth group meeting was cancelled due to “Día del Trabajador” (Day of the Worker), as such there were several parties throughout the town. Being that many of my youth are part-time employed, many were out and about eating asado. Meanwhile, I caught up with friends and family on Skype from the convenience of my newly purchased sofa (as internet is one of the perks of service in Latin America- if you like to see globalization in this way as a perk- but I’m not getting on that soapbox today). That afternoon, it was off to Barrio Santo Domingo to kick off their neighborhood Fiesta Patronal with a hot chocolate party for the kids at the local chapel. About 50+ kids showed up and we went through two huge pots of hot chocolate and several cakes. Yum! My job? To be there for moral support, take pictures, and try to help with any last minute decision-making (like moving indoors when it started to sprinkle). Upon my return home, it was time to make up a big vat of guacamole for my birthday party. Yep- I am now 25 years old- half a century already speeding by. Guacamole has become my signature potluck dish ever since my avocado tree came into season. Avocados are typically eaten with milk and sugar in Paraguay, so this salty Mexican party dip is out of the ordinary but highly enjoyed if one can get past the virtual disgust at thinking a fruit can be eaten with salt, pepper, onion, tomato, lime, and cilantro. “Guacala!” they say- translation “Ew! Gross!” However, most everyone so far has changed his/her mind after the first homemade chip. Thus the choice party dish for the evening. By around 7pm, my friends and neighbors started to filter in. We played a bit of UNO, drank red wine mixed with coke, and chatted about everything from underwear to the cycle of poverty. Happy birthday was chorused in three languages (Spanish, Guarani, and yes… I did sing my own version in English which got a good laugh), the candles were blown-out, wishes were made. What was the night before a rather sad tribute to 25 years now felt just right. It’s wonderful to have such great friends and neighbors to remind me. By midnight my friend/coworker and I had cleaned everything up and went to sleep for an early start the next morning.

4am and the alarm sounds for our early Monday start. Today, I am bringing the secretary of our new soup kitchen to a 3-day workshop on project planning and management. She does not live in my town, rather in a compania just outside the pueblo limits- thus the spending the night. We feed the cat, pack up our mate/thermo, and start the walk to the terminal. It’s freezing outside for the first time this year. We arrive just on time. I call in my trip in to the Whereabouts Line (anytime I leave site I have to call it in to the PC office), and within minutes have fallen asleep for the bumpy ride. About 2 hours late I wake up to a completely packed bus, several young men are hovering in the aisle and leaning on the backs of the seats. Claustrophobia has never been a problem for me, but this sardine-like situation can get you feeling pretty darn cramped. I pull up my hood on my winter jacket (it’s still freezing especially since some of the windows won’t close) and pretend I never woke up. “We’ll get to the pavement soon,” I hope. Finally, we reach the world of asphalt and development and the bus clears a bit- with breathing room and a smooth ride, my contact and I decide to eat some chipa for breakfast and enjoy the view. Finally, by 11am we arrive at our destination. A short trip off Ruta 2, and we are at registration. A quick shower, lunch, and the introductions begin.

The workshop focuses on the project cycle of community projects. Step 1: Needs Analysis and Identification. Step 2: Prioritization. Step 3: Planning. Step 4: Execution and Monitoring. Step 5: Evaluation. From there we start all over again. Over the first day we only make it through step one, but we focus heavily on the “why?” behind each project. Frequently in Paraguay, events are started and planned but the “why?” is never asked. So, what are the real needs in our community? My contact and I identify several needs that the Constructores de la Sociedad are attempting to address with our work. First, the need for public debate and community solidarity. Thus the formation of barrio volunteer projects and youth groups. Second, environmental contamination and deforestation. Thus our projects on city clean-up, trashcan installations, and tree planting. Third, poverty. Thus our soup kitchen and attempts to bring the impoverished medical services and capacity building to escape the cycle. By the end of day two, we have worked through prioritization and tried to focus our investigation and project planning on the root of the problems we see. We realize that our work with the soup kitchen is only meeting a superficial need- we need to dig deeper and aim our intervention strategies at the real struggles these families face: lack of work and education. Day three, we start to plan a new intervention strategy focused on inviting parents to the soup kitchen for small capacity building days culminating with a CV writing session. We leave the session pumped- maybe we can actually get this soup kitchen idea off the ground and really making an impact. We listen to stories from contacts and PCVs around the country, and we see that the struggle is not just our own. On the ride home, we start to think of how to present our new findings to our fellow peers. There-in lies the challenge.

I arrive home at 11pm on Wednesday night. My cat is waiting on the doorstep clearly displeased. I perk him up with some food, eat an apple, and crawl into bed. I’m exhausted; it’s not everyday that I wake at 6am and sleep at midnight in my site. The workshop has me excited but drained. I sleep-in Thursday, relax around the house, buy some groceries. I’ve started keeping a meticulous budget of all purchases, as my PC living allowance seems to be cutting it closer every month. I recently learned that every “hot” electrical shower I take costs me 1.000Gs. Great… winter electric bills are going to be high. After a veggie lunch, I put on my smile for an environmental charla (presentation) at a high school in one of the companias. It goes fairly well, although most of the kids have to stand as we don’t have sufficient chairs. We end the 1.5-hour event with a tree-planting lesson. We have donated 250 trees to this high school, one per student. The trees were received from Todos Pulmon Paraguay Respira. Our aim is to plant 4,000 trees by August. With each set, we also try to educate the recipients- why is this important? How can you take care of your trees? Etc. I make it home by 4pm, have a terere chat with a neighborhood contact, and head home to clean-up for the next event. Tonight I have the highlight of the Fiesta Partronal in Barrio Santo Domingo- an artist showcase and bake sale. I hop on my bike and head over to set-up. When I arrive they announce a problem: a larger event has been rescheduled to this evening as well in the plaza. We decide to sell as much food as we can while two of our artists play- they were the only ones left as all of the others were invited to play at the plaza show. We finish our event just in time for the fireworks at the plaza. Riding my bike, I see the glow breaking over the trees. I get to my porch and watch until the last sparks fade into the night.

Friday is another busy day, my first meeting of the day is at 9am with a women’s group from another compania at the municipality. We have the municipality secretary help with any translations as the president only speaks Guarani. The conversation starts well with a request for assistance with sales of their soap products, which I’ve helped them get started. However, things start to turn south quickly when she asks me to purchase her a motorcycle to transport the soap products to other towns. I explain that this is not my function here; I cannot provide such funds. We also talk about the drawbacks to such a proposal in the first place, with a profit margin of only 25.000Gs. for every 10 liters of soap there is no way the women’s group could pay for the gas even if they had a moto. We talk about other options: collaboration with the muni to sell in their farmer’s market, door-to-door sales, requests at local stores to sell alongside other products. She leaves seemingly disappointed, but my contacts at the municipality are relieved; this group has been trying to get a free ride for some time now. Perhaps now they will come back with a better proposal. A few errands and visits around town are my next order of business. I visit with a fellow volunteer from the north purchasing a fridge after 5 months in site, another volunteer recently assigned to my town to work with the schools, and several local contacts just to catch up on the local happenings. That afternoon, I plan the workshop overview charla with my contact to talk about the results of our trip. In the evening, it’s the mass and procession for the Fiesta Patronal in Santo Domingo and then a Constructores meeting. The mass goes well and includes a reading of all the donations from the week- a good practice in transparency that is often lacking. The meeting does not go so well, the head of the Constructores did not unlock the door to our meeting space earlier that day and then arrived over 45 minutes late. There goes the charla plans we had made. Instead we decide to talk about soup kitchen promotions and conclude that we really need to let the public know more about this project. There is no use keeping it out of the public spotlight any longer. I get home at 11pm, eat dinner with a friend, and attempt to sleep soundly.

Given the promotions discussion the day before, I am up at 5am the next day for a 6am radio show to talk about our soup kitchen project. A good group of representatives shows up and we have a lovely chat about all that we are doing and need to do with this project. After an hour of questions and comments, I am off to type-up and print up the new attendance sheet for the soup kitchen kiddos. I have set up a meeting with the María Goretti youth group at 9am to talk about a gardening project the PCVs in my region would like to implement starting in the soup kitchen. Sadly, I can’t get there on time due to endless printing errors, which would be easily fixed if the photocopier shopkeeper knew a little more about excel files. I chastise myself a bit for not yet having taught a computer class- gotta get on that and resolve some of these misunderstandings. Luckily, depending on your view, the youth didn’t show up till 10:30am anyway. So, I had plenty of time to help our cooks learn about cooking with soy. We had a large quantity donated from Asuncion, and I was excited to try it out with the kids. The experiment worked out splendidly, I’m happy to report, as not one of the kids even seemed to notice a difference between this particular pasta dish and one with ground beef. In fact, it went over so well we actually ran out of food. I’ve sent the notice to our donators- we should be using much more soy (high protein, low fat) in the future. J My (albeit late) youth group meeting was also a success; we decided to install a soup kitchen veggie garden in two weeks (if the weather permits of course). From the soup kitchen I hurry over to the Cero (popular Paraguayan team) soccer fields for a pollada (chicken sale) run by several of my contacts. Back at home, I relax, eat, and chat with a fellow PCV via phone about the week. At 3pm, I head out for another youth group meeting. Sadly, after all the excitement of Fiesta Partronal, the kids are too worn out to show-up (or that’s what I tell myself so that I won’t be personally offended). Instead I visit with a neighbor and am gifted some fresh oranges. I head home for one final meeting of the day with my workshop contact to organize all of our donations and volunteer records for an official announcement at a second radio show in the morning. We finish up at 9pm after a visit from some Mormon missionaries (just around to chat in English) and a friend by for dinner. I stay up a little too late dicussing the differences between Paraguayan and American society- my friend enjoys bringing me any song that remotely implies something insulting about Americans. This time, he decided to bring over a song all about McDonalds and Donald Trump. Lovely. It’s a good thing we get along and a pleasure to have someone around to discuss such things with. At the end of the day, we come from pretty different worlds.

My week finally ends. Sunday I have some time off... well, if I don’t get any last-minute phone calls!

Semana Santa y Pascua

Before arriving in Paraguay, I had heard that Christian religious holidays were a big deal. I was beginning to catch on after having now been through virtually a year of Catholic celebrations. However, Holy Week and Easter were really quite unique in my experiences. Aside from having school and work cancelled starting on Wednesday of Holy Week, there are several fun traditions involved with the holiday that I wish to share.

Wednesday and Thursday are all about chipa (cheesy bread made in various shapes and sizes). Families and neighbors get together to cook in the yard in a traditional tatakua (like a pizza brick oven), each with their own recipe and slightly modified version of chipa. From then on, everyone gifts chipa to neighbors and friends… with enough chipa to eat for a week and still have more leftovers. Lunch on Thursday is a large family affair with prayers and special hand-washing practices AFTER eating. Any leftovers are brought to those less fortunate. For once the soup kitchen is obsolete. From then on, fasting begins. Not a “fast” as in not eating, but a fast from meat. Which, in Paraguay, is a pretty big deal. A meal is not complete without meat! So, more chipa it is, and perhaps some beans if the family is not too tired of them yet (this has been the Friday meal for the entire month already). Friday is spent in deep and quiet reflection. Children are not out playing in the streets, the stores are closed, families are bunked-down for the day. I covet the silence as I normally have VERY loud music blasting from the neighbors’ on either side of my house. Saturday, all the stops are pulled for a big asado celebration. We may not have been able to eat meat on Friday, but Saturday makes up for it all (and some). My friends and I enjoy a freshly killed cow, which was actually cooked to a perfect medium-rare for once. I knew this day was special. Sunday, after a larger than normal mass, it’s more toasts and more asado. Easter has arrived!

Juegitos y Ciclos

Peace Corps often talks about the cycles of one’s service, and here we are again. We have now been up and running for four months in my community’s soup kitchen. It has been a real roller-coaster ride, though I have never experienced one so long and bumpy… but with any luck we at moving in the right direction.

It all started, as one may recall, with an unplanned inauguration last December in which we all got together on a Monday and collaborated funds for veggies and meat to feed some of the less fortunate children in the pueblo that very next Wednesday. Despite lack of planning and some serious skepticism on my part, day one (even month one), went off without too much of a hitch. Granted we didn’t have any chairs, lacked sufficient cutlery/plates, and were cooking on a BBQ pit as we don’t even have an oven/stove… but people did get fed.

By the end of the first month, however, things started to get pretty messy. People were angry at each other’s lack of support in time and money to maintain the project, volunteers were running low, and more and more kids kept showing up without the infrastructure to hold them all. It was looking pretty bad. So, we decided to finally get organized by putting together an official commission. It was time for my organization skills to step in. And for about a month- we did good. We raised funds with polladas, got a volunteering schedule, and pedido-ed around town for meat from the local butchers (5 kilos/month each one). We even started going family to family with a census on our client’s education, national identification, living, medical, and religious needs. It seemed to be looking up. However, somewhere in there we lost motivation again… and here we are with an empty pocket-book and little to show for all that hard work.

This particular project is at another low. It’s time to get back on the horse and start riding some burros. This week, pollada number two is to be organized and next week a radio marathon to raise funds. This time around, we are looking at making sustainable choices- buying a freezer to store donated meat whenever the butchers have it to give, building a massive fogón to cook on during the winter, and doing building construction so that the kids have a place to sit when the weather turns. My VAC members too are pitching in to help us plant a veggie garden so that we have all the vitamins we need right out back. All we’ve got to do now is keep it together one more month, then at least we’ll have the basics covered. From there, with any luck, the rest of the path won’t seem so steep and insurmountable (for me and my counterparts!). Perhaps it’ll even be time for a party to celebrate 6 months of operation. Hmmm… not a bad incentive, nobody can scoff at a bocadito/vino night!

Como Hobbits Así Es…

So, as often happens when I get into a series of books, I start to make comparisons between my life situation and that of the fantasy world I’ve entered between the hardback covers. Recently, I’ve been reading the J.R. Tolkien “Lord of the Rings” and the “Hobbit” series; and it’s got me thinking about the similarities between life in Hobbiton and life here in Paraguay.

Lets start on home lifestyle. While Paraguayan’s don’t live burrowed into the ground in wee holes with little round doors, they do kinda burrow into their neighborhoods and identify strongly with their family and heritage closely connected to the lands that have been handed down generation after generation. Along the same lines, Hobbits, like my Paraguayan neighbors rarely if ever enjoy a good “adventure.” I know of only two people in my city that have even been out of the country- and we only live 4 hours form the Argentinean border! In fact, those that do travel or venture to take the path unpaved often are seen as “outsiders” and (as Tolkien may say) “queer.” All that taken into account, Paraguayans are very hospitable. For example, if you ever want a free meal or just to sit around and chat- this is the place to be. Whenever I show up for terere around 10-11am, I am sure to be offered a seat at the table for lunch whether or not there was food sufficient enough to go around. Finally, Hobbits always try to keep the conversation polite, “at your service” they say. Here in the heart of South America the answer is always “YES.” Will you come to my birthday party? Can you be at the meeting at 3pm? Do you like this crazy spicy food I’ve just prepared? “Yes” they say, even when in all of those cases they are really thinking “Ummm… no… you crazy outsider.”

On a perhaps more rico front, it’s easy to draw links between Hobbit’s and indeed Paraguayan’s love for food and everything about it. This is an agricultural society and the people love to work the land. Not for sale, but just to eat. The number of meals one may have in a day is not too different either. I used to think that Paraguayan’s ate very little, but truth is they just eat often. For example, the other day on my way south with a group of Paraguayan friends we actually stopped for what one could call “second breakfast.” Yep- we pulled over on a grassy hill for a wee nibble- chicken sandwiches, cocido, and all. With food of course comes the love of Hobbits’ so-called “pipe-weed.” Now, here in Paraguay, we don’t smoke any sort of weed (ok, look at the world-class black market and you’ve caught me lying) but we do drink lots of a kind of weed we call yerba mate. Indeed, I am referring to Paraguayan’s daily routine of mate in the morning and terere throughout the day. Yes, isn’t it lovely to sit back like a Hobbit/Paraguayan and sip that tasty beverage. Refreshing and relaxing- if only there were colored smoke rings it’d be perfect!

Finally, being all about peace and tranquility here in the Peace Corps- Paraguay is very much like Hobbiton in its tranquilo lifestyle. Hobbits, it is said, at no time had been warlike, and here too we like to be happy, always “bien.” And, as Gandalf comments- even if everything else in the world is dark it’s good to know there’s always a place to come back to where life is still just that simple.

Disclaimer: In case in someone’s view I’ve offended either the world of the Middl-Earth or my home here in Paraguay, none of this is meant to offend- only to explain some of the fineries of my experience in a way that perhaps those that are not with me can understand.

El Seguidor y El Lider

During one of our recent community meetings, the local priest of my small Paraguayan pueblo observed to the Constructores de la Sociedad that in many ways I could easily be taken for a leader in our group. One of my youth similarly stated during the leadership camp last January that I was indeed a leader in town bringing people together on community projects. While flattering, I am not completely convinced that I am such a lider as described. One could call me more accurately a “leader in training,” otherwise known as a “follower.”

We talk a lot about leadership in the Community Economic Development sector of the Peace Corps. Our aim is build leaders. The best leaders it is said are those that when a project is over, the people say, “we did it ourselves.” This theme is further explored in a book I’m currently reading called Follow me to Freedom: Leading and Following as an Ordinary Radical by Shane Claiborne and John M. Perkins. This book has really got me thinking about being a leader, or more accurately a follower in my site. Two key lessons I have so far taken away are that 1) vision (a key ingredient for a strong leader) stems from suffering and injustice, and 2) I’m always still learning to be a leader.

On the first point, there are two types of vision as I see it. There is personal vision, such as goal-setting and individual ambition. This I know quite well. There is also leadership vision, which is about finding a cause that keeps you up at night and drives you to find a solution with the people. It is about identifying the suffering of a people, your people, and leading through it. In Paraguay, I have been lacking motivation as of late. I lack this second kind of vision. When I came here, I expected in many ways to see injustice on every street corner in the form of poverty, corruption, or something I did not yet know that would set my heart afire. Yet this has not been the case so far in my service. Yes there is poverty. Yes there is corruption. Yes there are many things I disagree with in general. But… nobody is crying out or even really complaining. Where is the suffering? Surly, this does exist in Paraguay; I just need to go and find it. Action #1: search out that injustice.

Second, I have a long way to go toward becoming a leader. First things first, I need to learn to follow. Throughout my life I have had many a mentor from professors to coworkers to friends. Here, I need to find that too. Someone that can help me see where I fit into the puzzle and help me to mold myself into a leader for the people. I also need to admit when I am wrong more often. I often make mistakes, we all do- but a key to leadership is not making all the right choices, it is knowing when to say we have messed up and learning from it. On the same thread, I should not get stuck in lamenting the wrongs or feeling guilty about the past… because those very things are what make us stronger in the future. Additionally, as a leader in training it is important to identify the unique skills that I can offer to those around me to help correct injustice. If I know where I am strong and where I am weak, I can find others to work with that compliment my shortcomings and further the cause. Leadership is about teamwork at the end of the day. Finally, energy preservation through rest is vital. I often get worn out due to lack of “days off” (Peace Corps is a 24/7 job they say, and I stand by that as true). If I do not rest I cannot be in it for the long haul, and the causes really worth fighting for are going to be long-term ordeals. Action #2: remember to be a follower.

Leadership is a tricky thing, especially when one is outside her own culture. But here I am. Daily I am asked to be a leader, even presented as one. It’s worthwhile considering about how to do it better.

Vacación Uruguay

For a country I’ve heard very little about and a vacation I’d planned last minute, Uruguay is everything and more than I could have imagined. In fact, my vacation to Uruguay was so wonderful that I can see myself actually living in Montevideo sometime in the future. Note: I do NOT say that about many places.

My vacation started with a 15-hour bus ride from Encarnacion, Paraguay to Montevideo, Uruguay. A large tour bus with seats that sprawled into beds, in transit movies, and a mere five passengers… the minute I started my journey I was already smiling. I got to know everyone on the bus during our first stopover dinner just outside of Posadas, Argentina. Two Uruguayans, one Paraguayan, and an Australian globetrotter were to be the first of my new friends on this trip. We told stories and jokes, shared snacks, and admired the scenery as the sun rose over the grassy plains that comprise the countryside of northern Argentina and Uruguay. By the time we had arrived, Ramon from Punta del Este was taking us out for authentic Uruguayan lager and traditional desserts. Such is the hospitality of these lovely people. My first local bus ride revealed an immediately striking difference between this Latin American country and the one I currently reside in. Development does some amazing things. For one, I actually had a seat on the bus, the ride was smooth over paved roads and with proper suspension, there were real bus tickets printed out after you paid, and there was even a scanner for bus passes! Wow! In Ciudad Vieja, things just got better and better with pedestrian zones cobblestoned with tiny booths and shops scattered about, tree lined boulevards, people of all races and multiple languages going to and fro, traffic laws actually obeyed so that a pedestrian need not race across the street to avoid being run over, trashcans on every street corner…. peaceful, tranquil.

That afternoon I took a nap at my hostel (I highly recommend the El Viajero hostels along the coast- clean, friendly, fun, chill) and upon waking immediately entered into conversation with people from around the world in English, Spanish, and even Portuguese (so similar to Spanish I can actually understand some of it- if it is Brazilian mind you). I’d like to shout-out to some of these truly outstanding people, as they helped me to remember that the world is so very much bigger than my small Paraguayan pueblo. Thank you Colin, Pierre, Cybil, Rui, Andre, Daniel, Manuel, Amy, Rodrigo, and those whose names I don’t remember but were equally awesome!!! After a round of beers, I headed off with a new French friend to dinner and a walk on the rambla (boardwalk) to watch the ocean waves. It was then that an unexpected twist came into my lovely first day. Sitting on the rocks of the shore watching the tide come in and engaged in friendly banter there suddenly came some commotion down the street; ambulances and flashlights appeared along the beach. Not wanting to get in the way, we continued to mind our own business until probably an hour later a body was being carried by. Apparently someone had fallen from the rambla to his death. Now a bit ill at the thought, my new friend and I stood up to leave and were shortly afterward approached by two suspicious-looking fellows on the rambla wall. At first they asked what had happened, kindly advised us that we were in drug-dealing territory, proceeded to offer us a sale (which we refused), and then pointed out the many many large rats indeed scrambling along the beach. Safely back on track to the hostel, I laughed… Welcome to Uruguay!

Luckily, my first evening was the most adventurous of all of my remaining days in Uruguay. From there on in, it was some of the smoothest sailing ever. I met up with a new friend every day in Montevideo to bike the rambla in search of the best seafood and relaxing beaches. We explored a bit of the city and nightlife, had great debates with fellow travelers on everything from the famous fútbol stars to international politics, and slept in every morning. Ahhh… what a vacation should be. Mixed in to it all, I also met up with an old friend from the UK for dinner and to admire/poke fun at the quincinera dresses sported in photo shoots in front of the gorgeous Teatro Solis. As I packed my bags after my five days in the capital, I felt a little remorse leaving what now oddly felt like home. I knew the staff and the guests like old friends and could hardly bear starting over again in a new city.

It was off, however, to Punta del Este to hang out in Uruguay’s largest beach resort town. Tall buildings brightly colored by the night, “Los Dedos” sticking out of the sand into the Atlantic air, and packed beaches was the theme. Once again, I immediately came to meet a bunch of amazing travelers- this time virtually all from Brazil. I got to work on my Portuguese a bit more intensely these days and also learned a lot about Brazilian lifestyle. My roommates, for example, were self-proclaimed Brazilian male strippers (I struggle to believe they were not a little tipsy during our first encounter). Goodness, I just don’t know how they can keep partying without ever seeming to sleep! The first evening, we went to an outdoor Shakira concert and danced in the streets with thousands of fans. The next day it was beach hoping and napping. I even managed to get a swimsuit tan! That night we chilled at the hostel with the southern wind blowing by. This was to be my last night in Uruguay; I slept a bit anxious with thoughts of a long return ahead of me.

As I said, that WAS to be my last night in Uruguay. However, the next day I trudged to Montevideo to find that the only bus back to Paraguay had been canceled due to Carnaval. “Great… so typical,” I thought bitterly. And then after a few emails and an hour of problem-solving I thought… “Great! Now I can go see something new!” So it was off to Colonia that afternoon for an extra and unexpected treat. Colonia is the only Portuguese-founded settlement in Uruguay and was setup as a smuggling town for goods into Buenos Aires just across the river. The old town has been mostly preserved from its former days including the cobblestoned roads, lighthouse, city wall with drawbridge, and the oldest church in the country. A city full of history and beauty. It was here that I spent my real last night in Uruguay watching the sun set over Buenos Aires, drinking a glass of Uruguay’s unique tannat wine, eating the final fresh fish I will likely see in a long while, and enjoying the colonial atmosphere of my hostel. What a perfect way to end a vacation.

My bus ride home the next day was longer than the first at 21 hours, having to go all the way to Asuncion, but was equally enjoyable in many ways. More passengers this round from Israel, Switzerland, Uruguay, Paraguay, and more- I had plenty to talk about and learn. Now, too, I had become good at managing and translating multiple languages and was soon a link for many friendships made that ride. Back at the all-too-familiar terminal in Asuncion, we exchanged numbers and departed.

The lingering impact of my first South American travel adventure: a smile and a global connection. Uruguay- you will be dearly missed, but I will not forget you!

Una Sola Mujer

Hello readers- whoever you are! It has been another long haul since the last time that I wrote. Shortly following my amazing week in Paraguay during which I made my last entry, I came into one of my worse weeks. As always in the Peace Corps, there are life’s ups and downs. Some days are really sunny, others it starts to rain and shuts everything down. Without going too much into the details, all I can say is that being a female volunteer alone in the middle of a mud pit can be really difficult. Sometimes those that appear to offer help and relief have secondary motives that are not so noble. In training, they warn of these challenges. In practice, it is difficult to avoid. So, after a very difficult week and another simply trying to escape the mud and rain (literally… not figuratively although one could also spin it as such), I finally broke the borders of Caazapá and headed to Asuncion.

My first round of VRTs (to be honest I’m not totally sure what that stands for but it’s trimester reporting) was at hand. I remember about 3 months ago I was really clear on what I was doing. I had a list of activities I was working on and a timeline for each one. Things were very organized. When it came to reporting my activities of the last now 6 months, however, things were a bit more difficult. Perhaps it is because so much has happened professionally and personally since those days, perhaps I was just tired after the 10.5 hour bus ride to Asuncion during which the bus blew the same tire three times and then got stuck in the mud, perhaps it was the first take-out food I’d seen in months… either way when I was asked the open-ended question, “So what have you been doing in site these last 6 months?” I struggled to formulate my answer. We talked about the courses I had run in English and micro-business, the comedor comunitario, the family garden group and the challenge of micro-credit defaults in the campo, the many small projects my barrios were tackling across the pueblo, and the completion of my community study. The big picture, if you can really call it that, is that even in this short amount of time during what most people refer to as the “slow” point of their service: I’ve done a whole lot. And, perhaps more striking: I need a vacation.

So, this weekend, I am attempting to head back to site only to pack my bags for a new kind of adventure. I’m waylaid in a town 2.5 hours south waiting for the rain to stop long enough to let a bus through. So for now, simply Dreaming of Uruguay…. 

Despierta

Goodness- where have I gotten off to as of late? Right?

Well, you'll be happy to know that I've finally woken up. I cannot really tell you what happened to my inspiration these last few weeks, but the lights have returned and my clear blue eyes see once again why I am here and the path that I've embarked upon.

This week has been absolutely wonderful in both an eye-opening and returning to one's roots kinda way. The heat has diminished slightly with virtually non-stop rainfall, and somewhere between the clouds I have remembered that I am led by a vision- one that I do not always see clearly but that guides the hand of serendipity in my encounters. Through ongoing conversations and passing events, I have come to realize that Paraguay is exactly where I am to be right now. It is here that I am recovering and rediscovering my motivation to follow the winding and rocky path that I've chosen in international development/conflict resolution. Sitting in my small Paraguayan house, tending my veggie garden and my brand new 16 baby chicks, my worlds (the developed and developing) are colliding in new and magnificent ways each day. From realizing why it is that I am drawn abroad, to how one recovers from past mistakes, to where the signs are pointing in my professional career... this is what it is all about. They say that Peace Corps is as much a benefit to those in one's host community as it is to the individual herself. And it is to this effect that I wish to tribute today.

Before coming to Paraguay, I watched a small video clip made by former Peace Corps Volunteers. The line that stuck with me the most was "Living with latrines is not a hard thing to do. Living without running water is not a hard thing to do. You get over it. Living with another culture is kinda hard, but you get over it and you will make friends. Living with yourself for two years... is the hardest thing you can possibly do." Following swear-in as a volunteer in Asuncion, not yet aware of what might lie ahead in my site down south, the words resonated strongly. Can I live with myself for two years? Up until recently, I kept myself busy enough to avoid answering this question. Hardly a spare moment to reflect on a grand scale this unique experience, I thought perhaps all my pondering on this question was not particularly relevant. However, after taking on the "carne challenge" (see blog entry December 18, 2010), my many activities came to a rather precarious halt. Wobbling on the edge of a personal hurdle, I finally sat staring that question clear in the face. Can I live with myself, my faults, my quirks, my successes, my temper, my enthusiasm? And the answer is unequivocally: YES. And in fact, given this wonderful opportunity to stop for a second the daily grind so strongly drilled upon in the so-called "developed world," I find I cannot only LIVE with myself- I can GROW with myself.

This week, I have certainly done many things in my community: meetings, soup kitchen, terere, etc. More importantly, however...
I took the time to read. Nothing special really, but I finally finished the Harry Potter series as I've been wanting to for so many years.
I took the time to write. In my journal and now here on my blog.
I took the time to study. Completing an economic study of my city and reading through the details of uranium mining and conflict prevention in the face of globalization to be highly relevant in my site this upcoming year.
I took the time to sing. In fact, this week I sang, practiced guitar, and even wrote my first all-Spanish ballad.
I took the time to cook. The whole town is now out for my homemade Mexican tortillas, fajitas, tacos, and guacamole (made from my very own avocado tree) after I made lunch for several friends and families throughout the week.
I took the time to talk it out. Chatting with friends from Guatemala to the UK, to Germany, to New Zealand, to the US, to right here in my backyard.
I took the time to imagine. To consider what it is that I will really do after Peace Corps- where the road may lead next and how to prepare.

So often, we speed through life. I for one, haven't stopped long enough to breath, much less really consider this glorious life we've been granted. Given my past, you'd think that I had thought it all out- the bold choices to skirt from one side of the globe to the other. Yet I shamefully must admit, in all that searching for heaven-knows-what... I am discovering more by looking within than out.

Peace Corps is not for everyone. The tired body and idle mind can very much wear on the soul. But, as a friend out of prison once told me, "you can let the time do you, or you can do the time." To those of you embarking on this or a similar difficult journey- don't let time take over. Despite a considerable drop in my scheduled activities these last weeks, I find myself waking up earlier each day, hitting the pillow even later- not due to depression or anxiety... but pure excitement. What will I do today!?!

Liderazgo de los Jovenes

Dusk is falling at Itaipu as we are waiting in front of the buses that will take our group of 70 Paraguayan youth on a tour of the world's largest operational dam and generator of electricity for both Brazil and Paraguay- a feat of modern science and engineering. But this is not what is on display tonight, nor the most astonishing of what we will see. A flamboyant joven (youth) pulls out his portable boom-box as we wait, energy from our four day leadership camp has reached a boiling point. Suddenly, without planning or warning the jovenes start to chant, then dance, then scream... we have an instant flashmob. Lady Gaga breaks in and the parking lot becomes a spectacle of youth power, energy, and excitement. A crowd forms around our jovenes all dressed in teal t-shirts as the group forms a chair-less couch-sit. The dancing continues, the chants get louder, other jovenes unassociated with the group begin to join in. The driver arrives and just as suddenly as it all began, it all comes to a stop. The jovenes file onto the buses, the tour begins, ends. We return to camp, youth mobilization and the demonstration of all that youth can bring to this country has only just begun.

This last week I brought four youth from my small southern pueblo to Tati Yupi outside of Ciudad del Este to a Peace Corps sponsored and volunteer coordinated leadership camp: Campamento Ñande Haé Tenonderá. At camp they learned about what makes a leader, self-esteem, communication, teamwork, human rights, social justice, and project planning. Their charge over the next six months is to complete a project in their home towns, mobilizing other youth to become active in their communities and the development of Paraguay. When we return this winter, they will become the teachers- and us the observers. They will tell us how they have made the change they want to see in this world, and with a little perseverance they will see it through to the end. It gives me hope to see these motivated youth- tonight they are dancing, tomorrow they are the world's leaders.