Paciencia y Respeto

Knowledge transfer and interaction with people different from myself is something that I do on a daily basis as a Peace Corps Volunteer. In fact, I can think of so many examples that I find it hard to give any one concrete sample.

But let me use an example of my friend "Fulano," a country-boy from the surrounding suburbs of my small rural community in Paraguay. Fulano is a 20-something that comes from a fairly poor, rural background in a developing country- but has dreams of doing bigger things. I met him at first as a member of my neighborhood youth group and our first conversation revolved around where I’d travelled in the world for my young age. Fulano has rarely seen a world map, much less even thinks of visiting such far off places as Asuncion the country's capital. So when I pull out my list of countries I’ve visited he can barely grasp the reality, “Does everyone speak Spanish in the USA? Wow look at those "chinas" he remarks while I show pictures of Korea. Muslims and Israelis- those are the same right? Did you take a bus to get here?” Each conversation, I was teaching this young man about the geography, culture, and the world outside our pueblo. As our time in youth group developed into his becoming a volunteer at our local soup kitchen and later a good friend, I began to help him with his computer projects working in word, power-point, and the internet. I even helped him to work out various plans of action on gaining approval of his fiancée’s stubborn father wishing more for his daughter than a poor but wide-eyed country-boy. There is never a lack of opportunities to teach in Paraguay.

In the process of teaching, working, and conversing with "Fulano," I learned that I have a lot of patience. It is not easy to deal with what sometimes you feel are silly questions or go over time and again where the “w” is on the keyboard. That said, I also learned that I have a lot to learn from Fulano- just how difficult it is to overcome poverty in the developing world, Spanish/Guarani, how to use local remedies, etc. I learned that no matter who one is or where he/she is born, world-traveler or so-called “nobody” that we all have something to offer another… at minimum respect.

Voluntad y Jóvenes

The jóvenes (youth) beneficiaries attending the comedor comunitario (soup kitchen) are at times a really frustrating and dismal bunch. Educationally, over 33% of our kids are not in school and the majority are these are my teens. Personally, they are rumored to be some of the worst behaved kids in town whether making poor sexual choices starting as minors or involved in drugs/robbery. Professionally, they are only 20% Spanish speaking and ill-equipt to enter the job market in anything but house cleaning or construction help with a maximum income of 300.000Gs. (less than $100US) monthly. It is a sad case and even harder to stomach when they are so hard to reach much less gain in confidence. 

Back in October, it was decided that all jóvenes ages 12 and up would now have to volunteer in the comedor to receive its benefits and services so as not to create a false sense of dependency in young adults (and because donors to the comedor were refusing to donate to misbehaving street teens without some greater cause). That first month, only two or three jóvenes decided to stick around and others decided it would be better to harass the kids from outside. The rules were outlined, we work- then we eat, and a volunteer role chart was hung to organize the volunteers. But it was not an easy task, kids were sneaking food out on stolen plates to older siblings and volunteers were frustrated with the inside/outside inequalities. Even the cooks and commission members were ready to break, and this rule was voted in by them! We had had enough! It was time to play the carrot and stick. Our carrot- the jóvenes that helped me as volunteers regularly would be permitted to participate in my Ahecha photography course. Out stick- nobody won't eat REALLY until the work is done. The adults finalized the plan, and this time we wouldn't be slack.

After one more month, at times sticky due to difficult teen attitudes, we had a strong team of youth volunteers that were once our thankless beneficiaries not only helping out in an orderly fashion but also learning skills in leadership, service, and teamwork. Those in the Ahecha class even had the opportunity to learn how to use the camera, some practice desperately needed writing poems and paragraphs which is rarely done at home or even in school, and received their first ever certificado (one girl said that she was going to frame it and put it on her wall- she had dropped out of school a couple of years ago to help out in the house and this might be one of the few she will ever have). Now the teens actually complete for jobs they want that day instead of complaining about them, and they have a lovely time to chat afterwards with the adult staff at their own private lunch table. It was tough on the adults to be a bit more fuerte (strong/firm) with our discipline, but the carrot and the stick seem to have worked wonders so far- and I hope we can keep making differences in the lives of these jóvenes for months and years to come. 

Super Enferma

As a Peace Corps volunteer in Paraguay, I’ve developed many close relationships with my friends, neighbors and coworkers- and days when I’m feeling down or ill they are more than willing to offer a helping-hand. However, a Paraguayan’s help on your sick day may not be what you thought you were getting yourself into. 


Recently when I was dealing with the flu followed-by (or perhaps with) giardia- my boyfriend José decided to come over for what seemed like a short-notice party. He brought movies and friends and food…. And all I could think was, “Didn’t I tell you guys I was sick? I just want to sleep!” Trying not to be rude, I cooked up the food running to the bathroom every 15 minutes and tried to struggle through YouTube funny video sessions until I was ready to cry- “Guys please, I’m so tired- no more movies! I’d really like to go to bed!” The next week José was sick, and thinking of how miserable I felt I brought him soup and left him in bed to rest. Within an hour, José was furious with me- “how could you leave me alone when I am feeling so sick?” Completely confused, we decided to talk it out once we were all better.


As it turns out, when José was a child his mom would invite over friends and family when he was sick to give him company (as most Paraguayans would do), whereas when I was a child my mom would give me soup and tuck me in to sleep (as most Americans would do). Thus the root of the misunderstanding and also a way to resolve the problem- when I’m sick he now knows to let me sleep in silence with an occasional wake for tea, when he’s sick I know it is time to plan a party :-)

Even on a sick day, don't think you're free of those little cultural moments!

Ahecha

Throughout November and December, I had the opportunity to teach a Peace Corps Paraguay photography course called "Ahecha" with approximately 30 youth and adults from my community. Although my community is rather large for rural Paraguay, most of my students do not own their own camera and even more have never had the opportunity to use one. So, this was a real exciting chance for my community members to take advantage of 5 digital cameras available for use during class and a rotation to take the cameras home and snap a few shots. Here are some of the topics we covered:

• How to use a Digital Camera
• What is a Photo?
• Basic Photograph Components- light, frame, perspective, moment
• Photo Analysis- poetry, descriptions, feelings, design
• Portraits & Self Portraits
• Landscapes
• Movement
• Black & White vs. Color
• Advertising & Marketing Photography

The students did a spectacular job, with some really stellar results! I hope that every volunteer can participate in such a fun activity for the community. GO AHECHA!

Navidad y Pesebres

Merry Christmas!

If you build it- they will come.

Everyone is welcome to visit our pesebre this year with rosarios and all as a take-away.

Adventuras en Brazil

For two weeks this month, I had the privilege of using some of my vacation time (I know-what? we get that?) to travel to Paraguay's neighboring country Brazil. The largest country in Latin America with a development record beyond any of it's neighbors- this is a place I just had to see. Bumping around my schedule and thankfully taking advantage of the slow Christmas season- I was off on December 11th-23rd for a Brazilian adventure!

1st Stop: Foz de Iguazu

Outstanding experience to see the largest falls in the world both from the Brazilian and Argentinian sides of the border. Soooo cool! This was one attraction that just kept on giving from the Garganta de Diablo (Devil's Throat) to San Marin's massive series of falls stretching around miles of cliff-faces sculpted into a gorgeous arc. I loved this place. Maybe even good for a honeymoon as my fellow backpackers observed. It's a little far out of the way compared to the endless beaches and sunshine on the coast, but this is one place you really should not miss. 

2nd Stop: Florianópolis

This is one super amazing green and beachy island. Over 50 beaches are scratched out along the shores, large and small with all sorts of outdoor fun. A great place for photography (oh, but watch out for the sand because that is how you break your camera real quick)! The hostel staff was sweet and friendly, especially charismatic Serg from Peru; even the guests were fun to hang with, my favorite 3 couples from Spain/Colombia, Norway, and UK/France and an Argentinean friend I kept running into throughout my trip. By far my favorite beach was Matadores on the south of the island, but I also loved the small beach-side towns dotting the island with their little shops and colonial architecture. I could have stayed much longer, it was such a lovely place to be. For now, I've got the sunburn etched into my back as a recordatorio.

3rd Stop: Sao Paulo

A massive but shockingly clean and organized city. Hostel staff also great and more friends to get to know- a job hunter from the Netherlands looking to make a life in Brazil's New York City. All of Brazil screams "jobs!" but this city has the paychecks to make you squeal with delight. Rumor has it that many of Sao Paulo's rich get a ride via helicopter to work each day... so many in fact, that they are having air traffic problems. Lol. A Saturday night out bar hopping is certainly the thing to do, from brit-style gay bars to Paulista's snappy clubs. With all the Christmas decorations, it's difficult to feel like you're far from home in this city... until you notice Santa is below a palm tree. Downtown is a mass of people, the flood of pedestrians most dense heading to the Muni Mercado. If you can find a place to stop and snap a picture, you'll find the architecture unique. If you're not big on the hustle and bustle, just head to the parks where you can find ample space for a jog, yoga, or even sword-fighting lessons. Two days was enough for me, but for city-dwellers this is the place to be.

4th Stop: Rio de Janeiro

The welcome at the bus stop is not at all what one would expect for this well-known and celebrated Brazilian beach-side city and former capital. One's expectation is altered harshly to be greeted by graffiti across all the walls from kids competing to get their sign the highest and homeless sprawled out on the sidewalks. But not to worry, the place will win your approval in no time with it's outstanding touristy feel and accommodations. Boat party on the bay- check. A photo with the world's tallest statue the Christ Redeemer- check, outdoor artwork at the Lapa Stairs- check, hang-gliding over forest, sky-scrapers, and beaches- check. You can do it all and more. But make sure to take the time to see the "other" side of the city, book a tour or adventure with a friend into the favelas. Many are quite safe these days, and it is probably the real highlight of my time in Rio. Get to know the people, wander the concrete and spiraling streets, dance in the rain as the water whips away your flip-flops and the day's dirt. That is the Rio you should know.

5th Stop: Curitiba

Getting pretty tired at this rate, but Curitiba is truly a jewel in Brazil's interior. The cutest town hall I have ever seen, a free zoo right in the middle, a beautiful botanical garden, and decent souvenirs. Venture into one of the various shopping malls for a look at Brazilian fashion (not that you didn't notice already you were breaking all the rules wandering the streets) and compare the prices. This place is not actually all that cheap... in fact, it could be more expensive that the USA. While you are waiting for your bus, waltz in the Muni Market and buy some of the yummiest cheese, organic bread, and artichoke dip you've had yet in South America. Mmmmm.

Without a doubt, Brazil is certainly a place you should visit - and I barely even scratched the surface. In talking with fellow back-packers, there is much more to be seen in Brasilia and the north, the wild Pantanal, and the Amazon rainforest. These places are full of African culture, samba, and Brazil's most popular and native dishes. I will surely have to go back some day. For now, the memories I most often relive are the long bus journeys across rolling tropical hills, waking from dreams of another world and squinting through the fog to that place I was drifting through.

Tributo

This day my fellow Peace Corps volunteer, G-33 coworker, and friend passed away in a tragic car accident. 

Emily Balog

1985-2011

She will be dearly missed.